Update

October 29, 2018

CALISTOGA — It’s been awhile. One month, to be precise. And a lot has happened. I’ll try to catch us all up on it sometime soon. But for now there are a lot of loose ends to tie up.

Fieldsa

IMG_0307 (1)

Wayne and Robin Fieldsa put up the coffee and snacks for the picking crew. Robin didn’t want her photo taken since she’s part Native American and believes the process can take a piece of your soul.

September 29, 2018

SONOMA — The Syrah for our Rosé of Syrah comes from this little vineyard in Sonoma, owned by the Fieldsa family and kept watch over by Joker the chestnut-colored rescue horse. We got a decent crop this year, although we limited our pick to the stronger sections of the vineyard. Nearly a third of the property is suffering from what I’ve heard called “Syrah Decline” disease, which I think just means that the viticulturalists in the area aren’t exactly sure what’s happening, but that the vines rapidly begin to slow their growth and grape production and will likely need to be ripped out and replanted within the next five years. We keep our fingers crossed that the rest of the vineyard resists the decline. Super tasty grapes picked solely for making rosé. 24.5 brix, which is something like what you’d pick Sonoma Chardonnay at. But with a brighter acid and flavors of cherries, nectarines, Kiwi fruit, and strawberries. We pressed the grapes at Materra Winery in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. Winemaker Bruce Regalia has outfitted their facility with some top-notch equipment, including their Wilmes press. We prefer to use this press because the design allows for higher juice yields with lower pressing pressures. So it’s a very efficient press for quantity, while simultaneously boosting quality. Because if you can avoid it, you don’t really want to press red grapes for rosé all that hard, otherwise you might get some of the more aggressive skin tannins into the resulting juice, which is not what we are going for. We are going for a rosé so pretty and precious that you just can’t say no.

Last Week — We got busy last week and although I started to write a number of blog entries in my head, they never really made it to the page. Here are some bullet points:

-Sunday we picked Jennifer Thomson’s Pinot Noir vineyard in Carneros. Super ripe this year, which is just what it seemed was necessary to even out the maturity level across the vineyard. This was a simple destemming directly to t-bins for extended cold soak, followed by native yeast fermentation. The fermentation just barely started this morning, by the way. After 7 days.

-Monday was spent getting ready for Tuesday.

-Tuesday we brought in all our Napa Merlot and Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon. Jon and I and a hired crew of 3 people destemmed and sorted and saignéed for 8 hours on the Phifer Pavitt crush pad. It was a punishingly hot day, but the fruit had all been picked early morning so each macro bin was still cold as the dawn.

-Wednesday I did a vineyard lunch where I met some really nice folks and shared wine and food and conversation. Also racked the Rosé of Merlot saignée juice clean to a stainless steel barrel.

-Thursday we dropped off macro bins for the Syrah pick, sampled another Syrah vineyard, and picked up cased wine from our Napa warehouse for restocking the tasting room inventory.

IMG_7876And then, somehow I missed mentioning this momentous meal at El Molina Central in Sonoma. Our go to spot had been The Fremont Diner, a restaurant so good that it was actually one of the catalysts for sourcing the Syrah and Zin vineyards so far from our wineries. What a great excuse to drive to Sonoma and work our way through the menu at Fremont Diner. But The Fremont Diner closed unexpectedly a couple of months ago and we have been adrift, not sure if we should keep the vineyards until we could find a killer breakfast or lunch spot to anchor the long drive to Sonoma. Stacy Murphy, who works at our tasting room, had recommended El Molina Central. So one morning we stopped there for breakfast. There was a lot riding on this visit. And the only breakfast type thing on the menu was the Chilaquiles. So we ordered that. And then we fiended on their simply gorgeous rendition. It seemed we had found it again. Our Sonoma vineyard contracts in jeopardy no longer. There is now a new menu to work through. So many pure and layered flavors.

Aunt Debbie

September 17, 2018

Angwin, CA — Jon’s Aunt Debbie gets one step closer to fulfilling her winemaking dreams this vintage. Her family’s Six Blocks Vineyard produces it’s first legit crop this year and we are helping to make her Amador Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Verdot. So far so good. These are the kinds of days that make this job seem not like a job at all.

Early morning sampling of the Carneros Pinot and Oak Knoll Merlot vineyards. Then up to Spence to destem Six Blocks Cabernet Sauvignon. After a bit of cleanup, we had some delicious sandwiches at the “new” Howell Mountain Deli. Homemade potato chips!

Back down on the valley floor, we checked on the Zin rosé (still fermenting 59F and 16 Brix and tasting so delicious like strawberry guava). Chardonnay juice still waiting in barrel. The wild ferment has yet to begin. At least it’s not quantifiable evident to our noses, ears, and palates. There is indeed a sort of portentous essence to the juice right now. I don’t know what it means yet. But there just seems to be a lot about to happen.

Finally we meet back at the Tasting Room to organize our thoughts and put some logistical action behind all the vineyards we’ve been tasting through. Calendars are checked, vineyard crews organized, bets are hedged, and arguments are made for what ripeness actually means this year.

A Story of Sauvignon Blanc

Version 5

September 15, 2018

CALISTOGA — I opened one of our last bottles of 2015 SB the other night and poured it for my wife Kim. She asked, what’s this, something new? I had to agree. It tasted vibrant and alive. And then we enjoyed it with some pesto pasta. For that 2015 vintage, we had contracted with a grower to buy a couple tons of Oak Knoll SB. But the crop was unexpectedly short and another contracted buyer of the same block, threw their weight around and threatened legal action if they didn’t get their contracted allotment. So we were SOL. Which is fine I guess, except that we found this out roughly one week before expected pick date. So I scrambled to find a replacement. Miraculously, a small family vineyard in the same appellation, just a mile down the Napa River was looking to sell some of their SB. I say miraculously, because over the years as SB vineyards get tired and must be replaced, they consistently get replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon. Because that’s what makes business sense. And so every year there are fewer and fewer acres of Napa SB available. Which is unfortunate since Napa grows some of the most fabulous SB in California.

So we were stoked to get this vineyard. And the only reason this is really a story is because normally I would not have chosen to buy fruit from this vineyard. The soil was just a touch too rich and fertile. It held a excessive amount of water on a normal year. But this wasn’t a normal year. It was what turned out to be the last year of a five-year drought. Discounting my natural disinclination toward a vineyard like this, and because we were up against a tight deadline, I made an agreement with the retired couple who owned the property and prepared to make the wine. Now what generally happens in an overly fertile vineyard is that the fruit tends to not ripen beyond the greener, more vegetal flavors. With SB you can get bell peppers, jalepeno peppers, and general skunkiness. So I was hyper vigilant. It was kind of an ugly vineyard too, which means you have to try even harder to ignore what you see and focus only on what you taste. And luckily, what I tasted was delicious. We fermented the wine in 10 different containers—stainless steel barrels, and neutral french oak barrels, and even some stainless steel kegs—employing five different yeast strains with the aim of fleshing out the most balanced and layered aspects of the vineyard. And like magic, it seemed to work out.

That’s what is really so intellectually fascinating about opening that bottle of wine with pesto on a weeknight. It’s got all that back story for me. Sleepless nights went into the decision making of choosing that vineyard and holding out for the optimal pick date. And then one day you just open it and drink it and say to yourself, wow that was an amazing journey. Did we finish a whole bottle already?

Three Days

IMG_0251 (1)Above – Spent skins from the Zin Rosé pressing

September 11, 2018

CALISTOGA — Lots happening already as this harvest gains momentum. On Friday we pressed out the Zin Rosé. Juice tastes fantastic but the yield was a bit low. Only 145 gallons per ton. I was hoping for more like 160 gallons. That happens most of the time. It’s rare that we reach our wine volume forecasts. Just a bit too much optimism combined with bit too many variables. Anyway, by the time we finished pressing and cleaning up it was 8pm Friday night.

Saturday was anchored by the Calistoga Wine Growers annual tasting in Pioneer Park. Setup at 3:30, cleanup by around 7:30. An event so close to our house (three blocks) that I just can’t say no.  Any wine event that you can walk home from is usually a good one. It turned out to be a predictably warm Calistoga September day, meaning that even the big Cabernets see some ice bucket time, just to keep them in the cellar temperature realm. And although it’s really never what I feel like doing on a harvest weekend, it always ends up being a good gathering—nice people, pretty park, working alongside so many of our Calistoga vintner friends.  By the end of three hours of me telling our story, describing our wines, and meeting scores of new people, I’m spent. I think I went home and had a bowl of leftover chili for dinner and went to bed.

Sunday we racked the Zin rosé juice clean from the settling tank and put it into two stainless steel barrels and one keg. The barrels got the QA23 yeast and the keg got Perlage. We are liking the QA23 for its full tropical Hawaiian punch elements. And the Perlage brings a creamier mouthfeel along with the added bonus that it’s a durable fermenter, so that just in case the other ferment get’s sluggish at the end, the addition of the Perlage portion could save the day. On a side note, we do plan to pick the rest of the King Zin on Thursday for the red Zin. Super fun to make two totally different wines from a single vineyard.

Monday morning started early at the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay vineyards in Oak Knoll. Then on to the King Zin, Sonoma old vine Zin, and Sonoma Syrah for a rosé cuvée. The Sonoma vineyards are ripening especially slowly this year with unseasonably cool weather for the past month that’s forecast to stay cool through the next couple weeks. Both vineyards are roughly two weeks away from picking time. That’s when we got a message from Suzanne Pavitt of Phifer Pavitt Winery that they had, on somewhat of a whim the previous night at an event, tasted through a ten-year vertical of every Napa Cabernet I had ever made for them. From 2005 through 2015. The message was that they had left enough in each bottle for us to taste through the entire decade. A rare opportunity indeed.

So we grabbed a quick lunch at Gotts where we ran into Jerry Seps, founder, owner, winemaker, and vineyard manager for Storybook Mountain. It turns out that after all these years Jerry was still my best winery boss. Mainly because there is no pretense with Jerry. Just the hard work of trying to run a 40-acre family winery with great wines and decent enough cash flow to keep the whole thing going for another harvest. He was the winemaker and I was the associate winemaker at Storybook from 2000 to 2004. We got to mess around with wild yeast fermentations together. During harvest I did all the cellar and wine work and Jerry managed everything to do with the vineyards. It was a beautiful, warm and crystal clear day in the valley. Jon and I had called in our orders ahead so that our Crispy Teriyaki Chicken Sandwich, California Burger, garlic fries, and sweet potato fries would be ready to eat as soon as we arrived. Which is what happened. We asked Jerry what he was up to, and he said, “Waiting for my grapes to get ripe.” True enough. Might as well have a burger while you’re waiting.

It was a first for me, to taste through this ten-year vertical of wines that I had made, and from a single vineyard. There they were. Ten years of weather and scheduling and pumpovers and topping and tasting and blending, contract negotiations, sleepless nights, missing bungs, barrel trials, and winemaker dinners, all lined up in vintage order across a marble counter top. Mostly what I noticed is how amazingly solid Arthur Spencer’s vineyard is. Temple vineyard, over in Pope Valley. So good. Year after year. And it also had me thinking that over the ten vintages, we had made these wines at 5 different winemaking facilities. 2005 was at the old Robert Pecota Winery, then KJ bought them so for 2006 we moved production to Caldwell, deep in their massive caves down in Coombsville. 2007 was at Laird in Oak Knoll. 2008 through 2010, we made the wines at Raymond and right about the time that Boisset bought them we finally opened the Phifer Pavitt winery for our first year of full winemaking at our own facility in Calistoga. It may sound obvious, but what seems to make the biggest difference is not equipment or technology or knowhow. It’s the weather of the vintage. Particularly the weather during the last three months before harvest. That’s what put’s the finishing touches on the character of a vintage.

 

 

King Rosé

September 7, 2018

MANKAS CORNER — Roger and his crew are picking one ton of his estate zin for us at dawn this morning. The fruit grows in the Suisun Valley appellation, which has been referred to as a mini Napa Valley, just one mountain range over to the east of Napa. We’ve been buying fruit from Roger’s Suisun Valley vineyards off and on again since our first year in 2002. Roger King is the mad genius of this grape growing in the region. It’s conceivable that there may be better farmers here. But not with Roger’s creative insights and his visceral connection to the land and the forces of man and nature. Plus he cusses like a sailer, and seems to know all the pertinent gossip and natural history around here. So that a morning spent walking the vine rows can quickly bring you to speed on local knowledge.

The three man crew is making short work of this one ton pick. Roger will drive it the one hour north to Calistoga where we plan to press it later this afternoon. The next time we are down here it will be to pick the Zinfandel for red wine. Hopefully another week to ten days from now.

What’s To Come

Version 2What’s to come–late nights, head lamps, and wet socks. Jon Jones owning the long day cleanup rally.

September 6, 2018

CALISTOGA — We are nowhere near the point in harvest when this photo makes sense. But it is always in our minds. This morning though? Nothing to say yet really. 6am wakeup call. First cup of coffee brewing. Plan today is to endure another 7 plus tons of painfully slow Sauvignon Blanc pressing. Brix results yesterday on the fresh pressed juice indicated that we had properly characterized the state of the vineyard and in the end got the ripeness we were looking for. Which is always a relief and an important verification of our sampling techniques. It’s nice to be able to have faith in the notion that the relatively small number of grapes you tasted and sampled in the vineyard can accurately represent the vineyard as a whole. It also helps when the fruit just tastes really good and you find yourself eating a lot of grapes during the course of the day.